Short answer
Cockburn Street in Edinburgh is a curved, sloping Old Town street that links the Royal Mile to the Waverley station area. It was laid out in the Victorian period as a new route, and Southern Cross Cafe sits at number 63A.
Cockburn Street in Edinburgh is a curving street in the Old Town that links the High Street section of the Royal Mile with the area below near Waverley station. It was built as a Victorian improvement, and its bends, stepped closes and narrow frontages make it one of the most photographed streets in the city.
What is Cockburn Street in Edinburgh?
Cockburn Street is a Victorian street in Edinburgh’s Old Town, cut through the slope between the Royal Mile and the lower ground near the railway station. It is named after Henry Cockburn, a nineteenth-century Scottish judge who was known for caring about the look of his city.
The street is a mix of tall stone buildings with shopfronts at street level, upper floors with stairwells, and several entrances to the closes. It forms part of the Old Town conservation area, so the frontages stay close to their original character.
Why was Cockburn Street built, and when?
Cockburn Street was laid out in the middle of the nineteenth century as part of Edinburgh’s Old Town improvements, to give wheeled traffic an easier route between the High Street and the new railway. Exact dates vary between sources, but the building work falls in the 1850s and 1860s.
Before it existed, the connection between the Royal Mile and the lower ground was a set of steep, narrow closes. The new road bent across the slope to keep the gradient manageable, and it was lined with buildings in the Scots Baronial style, with turrets, gables and crow-stepped roofs. That style is a large part of why the street looks so distinct today.
Why is Cockburn Street curved?
The curve exists because the street had to climb a steep slope. A straight road up the hill would have been far too steep for horse-drawn traffic, so the planners drew a long bend that stretches the climb over a greater distance.
The result is a street that reveals itself slowly. From the bottom you cannot see the top, and from the middle you look along a curve of stone fronts. That shape also gives the street its pace: it is an easy place to wander and a poor place for anyone in a hurry.
How do you walk Cockburn Street?
Start at the Royal Mile end and walk downhill, or start near Waverley station and climb. Either way, expect cobbles, a steady slope and a few steps where the closes meet the road.
- From the Royal Mile, find the junction where Cockburn Street leaves the High Street and curves left and down.
- Walk down the pavement, looking up at the gables and turrets.
- Pause at the closes that open on your side, such as Fleshmarket Close, which is a stepped lane.
- Continue to the foot of the street and the Market Street area near the station.
From the station end, the climb is gradual but long enough to feel in the legs. A walk of the full street takes a few minutes without stops, and closer to half an hour if you pause at every window and close.
What are the closes off Cockburn Street?
A close is a narrow lane or passage between buildings, a feature of Old Town Edinburgh. Several closes connect Cockburn Street with the lanes around it, and Fleshmarket Close is the one beside Southern Cross Cafe.
| Term | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Close | A narrow lane or covered passage between Old Town buildings |
| Wynd | A similar narrow lane, often with steps |
| Stair | A shared staircase serving several flats |
| High Street | The central part of the Royal Mile |
Many closes are stepped, because the Old Town is built on a ridge. They are public passages, but some lead to private doors, so walk through quietly and treat the houses with respect.
What can you see along Cockburn Street?
Along Cockburn Street you can see the curved row of Victorian Scots Baronial frontages, the closes that cut between them and, from the right spots, glimpses of the city below. The street is mostly shopfronts and cafes.
Because this guide does not review or compare other businesses, it names landmarks and streets only. For a wider walk, the Royal Mile at the top has the castle end and the Holyrood end, and the Scott Monument and the station are close below.
Where is Southern Cross Cafe on Cockburn Street?
Southern Cross Cafe is at 63A Cockburn Street, EH1 1BU, on the corner of Fleshmarket Close. Google Maps lists it as a cafe, and a 2015 blog describes the same corner.
A cafe stop suits the street well, because the walk is uphill or downhill and short breaks are common. Wanderlog describes the cafe as spread over two floors with indoor and outdoor seating. Hours on Google Maps are 9 AM to 5 PM on weekdays and 8 AM to 5 PM at weekends, while OpenTable shows 8 AM to 5 PM daily, so confirm before you go.
The menu recorded for this guide comes from the 2015 blog and visitor mentions, and it may have changed. It includes soup, sandwiches, wraps, ciabattas, a cappuccino, a Biscoff latte, tea and home-made cakes such as lemon cake and coffee and peanut cake. No prices were found. The menu page has the full recorded list.
When is the best time to walk Cockburn Street?
Early morning and late afternoon are the quietest times, with the street at its busiest in the middle of the day and during the Edinburgh festival period. Daylight shows off the stonework, and evening lighting helps the curve photograph well.
Wear shoes with grip, because wet cobbles and steps are slippery. The street is not fully step free, since several closes are stepped, so check your route in advance if mobility is a concern.
How do you get to Cockburn Street?
Cockburn Street is a short walk from Waverley station and from the Royal Mile. From the station, climb the slope from the Market Street side. From the Royal Mile, walk down from the High Street.
Edinburgh’s Old Town is compact, so walking is the usual way to reach the street. The nearest public transport hubs are the railway station and the city bus routes, and the exact services change, so check a current timetable. For the cafe’s own address and phone number, see the hours and location page.
Common questions
How long is Cockburn Street in Edinburgh?
It is a short street, roughly a few hundred metres, and takes only a few minutes to walk at an easy pace. The slope and cobbles slow you down, so allow longer if you stop to look at the buildings.
Is Cockburn Street steep?
Yes. It drops from the Royal Mile towards the station end in a long curve, so walking down is easier than walking up. Anyone with a pushchair or a wheelchair should plan the route in advance.
Why is Cockburn Street curved?
The street was cut as a new road across the steep slope below the High Street. Curving the route kept the gradient manageable, which is why it bends instead of running straight.
Where does Cockburn Street start and end?
It runs between the High Street part of the Royal Mile at the top and the Market Street area near Waverley station at the bottom. Fleshmarket Close joins it on the way.
Is Southern Cross Cafe on Cockburn Street?
Yes. Google Maps lists Southern Cross Cafe at 63A Cockburn Street, EH1 1BU, on the corner of Fleshmarket Close. It is an independent cafe and this guide is not run by it.
Before you go, check the Southern Cross Cafe Edinburgh guide for the current hours and the menu.
This article is general information from an independent guide, not from Southern Cross Cafe itself. For the store’s current details see hours and location.